DHS hi I'm Dave shadz with DHS equipment today I'm going to show you how I do an overhaul on a wacker wm80 engine this is

the most common engine used on their Jumping Jacks and their gas Breakers uh to start with we remove the engine I've got it mounted on this jig right now uh

in order to speed things up we had already taken the clutch off there's a clutch removal tool that you can get from Wacker it's a standard

clutch removal tool you just thread it into the clutch uh remove the nut thread it into the clutch tighten on the uh tighten on the

bolt here and it'll pull it off the taper very simple very common we'll remove our clutch to speed things up we'll go ahead and use our cordless drill and we'll start removing this

cover

we'll set that cover to the side here's our flywheel and our coil and we're going to get into that after

first we're going to go ahead and pull the piston in cylinder assembly you do not need to remove the flywheel for this uh but we're going to remove it anyway cuz we're going to do the bottom end

overhaul as well um once that covers off we've got access over here because we're going to need to get to this side of the cylinder okay so next we're going to remove our

carburetor and our heat shield on the carburetor there's two small bolts holding this flange on we'll just go ahead and remove

that gasket will pop out the nuts and we'll remove that whole carburetor assembly flange and Gasket step to the for

later next thing we're going to do is going to remove this Pock heat shield our spark plug we remove our spark

plug slide that out of there set that to the side okay next thing you want to do is we're going to remove the four bolts and

remove the cylinder uh before you remove the cylinder uh if you're not very familar with these engines if you're not very familiar with with two cycles uh

when you go to reinstall this piston this cylinder assembly you may not recall which which end goes where is it the intake side over here is it the

exhaust side over there so just to just to remove all that uh that doubt before we remove the cylinder just take a

marker uh this was the exhaust side of the cylinder if you want just put a little EX on your engine over here this

way when you go to reassemble it you know which way the cylinder is going because it'll install either way it's going to take a 5 mm socket

head wrench drop it down in there and remove those

bolts these are socket head bolts they sometimes have a tendency to strip especially if your socket head cool if your allen wrench is a little bit worn

these bolts are a little worn uh it's always a good idea to go ahead and replace new bolts if you're going to redo this this cylinder this way the next time it won't strip because that

head of the bolt strips while it's in the cylinder uh although it's not impossible to remove it's just not the easiest thing to remove you've got to get in

there with a drill bit and you got to drill out the head uh the bolt in order to remove the cylinder and then try to extract the bolt

so we'll loosen all these

screws and we just lift the cylinder off the pistol uh quick note about the cylinder if you're not sure which side is the exhaust side when you

get your new cylinder the exhaust port in relation to the intake Port is always going to be higher okay so the higher side port is your

exhaust side that's going to be on the side as we rotate the engine to where we made that ex Mark okay the cylinder is off now we're

going to remove our piston we going to rotate this around so we can get to uh the Clips in the pin okay to remove the Piston we're going to go ahead and

remove the retaining clip on one side you can see right in here it's got the little retainer clip usually a pair of needle nose uh will'll do the trick just

fine pull out that clip now what we want to do is want to drive that pin out this is why we took this other cover off uh so we have

access to the other side and when it's take our needle nose or you could use a screwdriver or anything else you like and just press through on the other side

to drive out that PIN

once that pin is through enough we can reach around with the needle nose and we can pull it out the rest of the way and now we can remove our

piston between the Piston pin and the connecting rod is a needle bearing whenever you're doing any kind of a top end repair always replace that

bearing it's a wear item if you're replacing the piston and cylinder you should be replacing the the pin bearing as

well okay piston and cylinder is off uh if we were going to just be doing the piston and cylinder assembly nothing else we would just go ahead and reverse

what we just did but we're going to go a little bit further and we're going to go ahead and uh disassemble the rest of the shore block uh quick note on checking wear on

the connecting rod and checking where on the pin and pin bearing we'll put our pin bearing onto the PIN

we'll put that assembly through the the connecting rod and we're going to check for play there should be no vertical play at all

if there's any play up and down something's worn it's got to be replaced if you do have play we need to determine is it the connecting rod or is

it the pin and the bearing easiest way to do that is get your new PIN get your new bearing and put the new pin and new bearing in to the same spot and now

check for play again if the play is gone you know you just got to replace your pin and your bearing if you have a new pin and bearing in there and there's still play your connecting rod is no

longer uh within service limits so you're going to want to replace that crankshaft and connecting rod assembly so what we're going to do next is we're

going to remove our flywheel and our coil and we're going to split the crank case open to remove the flywheel uh we must remove this nut over here this nut

is torqued down uh so we have to either hit it with an impact uh which will knock it right off or if you don't have air tools you don't

have an impact wrench you could use a strap wrench and hold that flywheel snug right there and hit it with an uh with your with your ratchet or if you notice

right inside here there are some holes put a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the

flywheel that'll lock it right there do not use your fins don't use your fins and your coil

as leverage you'll take out a $100 flywheel and a $200 ignition coil you're going to put your screwdriver in in the top hole you're going to rotate the

flywheel till it locks you're going to put a 19 mm socket on there and you're going to loosen that

that that nut remove the screwdriver and we can take that nut off take the washer off now we're just

left with the flywheel Wacker has a flywheel tool fairly inexpensive very usable tool very

easy it'll pull this flywheel off uh in in a breeze um there's not a lot of space to get a jaw puller and if you would to put a jaw puller in there this

material is very thin very soft chances are you're just going to you're going to snap your flywheel anyway it's worth the while to get the correct flywheel remover

tool all you do is loosen up this back Bolt the outside of this little Hub is

threaded going to thread the tool on it's only a it's only a a taper fit so it's not on there very

tight tighten up the bolt hold that

still with the 19 mm wrench try to tighten it usually it'll pop off before you get your first thread

done and it'll pop the taper once you pop the taper and you usually hear it pop you could remove your clutch tool

and your flywheel will come right off goad and set this flywheel to the side for now now that the flywheel is off we've

exposed the back of the the back of the engine where your coil your coil wire is and this is your high tension lead over here this is your ground wire over here

a lot of times if you've got an engine with an intermittent problem intermittent uh your your motor is just running that just dies no apparent reason you can crank it back up run it

for a few minutes and it'll die again A lot of times this little wire has made its way loose and hits the back of the flywheel if that wire is allowed to hit

the flywheel while it's running it's going to ground it out and you're going to lose spark your engine's going to your engine's going to stop running when your engine stops running there's no

more Vi vibration and the wire is just going to be sitting there next to your flywheel is no longer grounding it so you'll be able to start it up again you'll go to operate your machine and

it'll die again because that one little wire is just knocking into your flywheel or or grounding uh against your block somewhere so sometimes you got to pull

that flywheel just to just to confirm that you've got no wires poking out and grounding okay so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to remove the

coil and that's a little clip right here depending on which model machine you got this is just a connector where the

switch is elsewhere located under the throttle lever or something like that the older machines actually had a push button right here which also could be a problem sometimes the older machines

will short and that little push button will just be grounding internally so for troubleshooting purposes you could disconnect your cable or on the the push

button it's a little set screw you could remove that little set screw and pull your wire out and then check your machine for spark again uh sometimes the the problem is just right there in the

button you don't have to replace your ignition coil okay so we're going to go ahead and replace the uh remove the coil okay to remove uh to remove this coil

it's got these two little tabs that are supposed to be holding back the cables just get a little flat screwdriver in there get a little bit of a the tip in

there and pry it up just enough to release the cable the same thing over here you're just going to get a pry it up a little bit

just enough so you're able to get that cable out the cable routes through the block and the the hole in the side of the block and it's got a rubber grommet um

it's easier to pop The Grommet out and pull the whole cable through rather than trying to pull the whole cable through the rubber grommet if you just knock The Grommet out of the hole the whole

assembly will come out you'll get stopped right here though this is where the the boot is the boot's not going to follow all the way through so all you've got to do is pull the boot

out and we'll set that boot to the side for now so now we got The Grommet popped out you can probably see it right in

there we've got the cable coming out of that where the little flange was and we're just going to pull this out okay we're going to pull the

ignition coil out it's just held in with three screws

the screws we remove the coil we'll set that aside for [Applause] now okay everything has been removed

we're ready to take the case apart pull out the bearings press out the crankshaft replace the bearings and put this assembly back together

for this we're going to need um just a couple of things if youve got a press the Press is going to be the best way to go about it uh for installing the

crankshaft for removing the crankshaft you don't need to to worry about a press um there's going to be a couple of special tools that Wacker has and sells

uh most of which are unnecessary we could we could easily use a couple of couple items that we bought for a few dollars at Home Depot and it's going to help you do this overhaul uh very

inexpensively okay so for now I'm going to Dismount the engine block and move over to the vice okay now that we got our block off of our jig we're going to

go ahead and split the cases this is the easiest way to do it on the bottom of this engine you've got four holes it's an an 8 mm bolt what

we're going to do is on the flywheel side of the engine take that 8 mm bolt and thread it in take the other 8 mm bolt thread it it

in doesn't have to be tight it's just going to be holding up the crank case but you you do want to thread it in

about an inch at least this way we've got a solid uh a solid fixture to hold this block up on this side of the engine we've got

some Torx head bolts and we've got some some nuts on the other side so we're going to start by removing these uh removing These Nuts and Bolts what we're going to do is now

that we've got this up we can just hold it into our Vie take our Torx sand

socket and just start removing these bolts

both to the side and this to the [Applause]

side okay the next thing we do once we got once we've got all the uh nuts and bolts removed uh we're going to separate the crank case

halves uh the outside housing is aluminum it's thin it's soft it'll heat up quickly uh so what we want to do is with a with a propane

torch just to make this easier to press out we're going to take the propane torch and we're going to heat just this area okay and once we heat that up we're

going to start to to remove it now anytime you're going to do anything with a crankshaft where you're going to have any kind of uh tools around the threads of the crankshaft we don't want to

damage them so what we're going to do is we're going to thread the nut back onto the crankshaft okay on the flywheel side and on the clutch side we're going

to begin to heat this area now we don't want to use oxyacetylene we

don't want to use heavy duty we don't need to melt this area we just need to heat it up just enough to expand and and release that bar a little bit we're just

going to go circular motion all around where that bearing

is that's you usually be enough okay with that nut flush with the crankshaft going to take a dead blow

nothing heavy No 5 lb Sledgehammer uh just a dead blow uh good solid dead blow hammer uh and we're just going to grab hold of this side of the

crank case and we're going to hit it squarely on the crank shaft

okay it's uh it's it's heated up it's it's relaxed enough where that bearing can come out easily if you don't heat it up this is

not going to go very well if you put it on a PR press without heat you could possibly crack it so a little bit of heat goes a along way so we've already

got this side out we're going to go ahead and repeat the process on this other side take this other side use our 8 mm

bolts okay we see on this side the seal already came out that that nut will sometimes grab the seal and pull it

out that's fine because we need to remove that anyway if it did not pop out all we have to do rest it on its

face take a socket or piece of 3/4 in PVC just put it on top of the seal and pop it through the seal should pop out

very easily okay with the same procedure we've got those bolts up here we're going to put

that in the vice we're going to heat this area here and we're going to remove the crankshaft from

here slow circular

motion same thing now again with that nut flush against the crankshaft so we don't damage the threads hang on to the

crankshaft and give it a smack with your

Hammer almost there now our frame shaft is

out remove remove this from the viice this section is going to be hot so remove it from your

bolts same as before if the seal did not come out lay this flat on the bench take your socket or your piece of 3/4

PVC and knock your seal out while these two items are cooling the next thing we're going to do is remove

the gr the bearings from the crankshaft itself we can now remove the nut we can remove the seal discard the

seal not going to use that again remove this other nut remove that seal discard

that and now we've got to do is is separate the bearing from the crankshaft itself take a look in here there's not a lot of room between that bearing there's

no way to get a standard puller on there so what we're going to use is split bearing

puller like this okay if you take a look at this puller and you can get these anywhere Harbor freay Uh Sears Northern Tool Etc

if you take a look it's got a a little angle right up here and what we're going to do is we're going to we're going to put this on both sides of the bearing on

the crankshaft and we're going to start to tighten these and as they tighten they're going to wedge themselves between the bearing and the crankshaft

and it's going to squeeze this and it's going to start to press the bearing out so that's what we're going to do next so you see we've taken the uh the

bearing puller put it on both sides of the crankshaft and the bearing there's the back of the crankshaft there's the front of the bearing and as we tighten

these up and it's squeezes it it'll start to press the bearing up we'll go ahead and put it in the visce just to make it easier okay just slowly tighten

it down

evenly sometimes you can Aid this by taking your Hammer if you see it's already starting to uh to pop out you could Aid this by press it by hammering

down a little bit and as it squeezes it's going to throw it out some and this bearing is

just about off the r if we had a we still had a lot of uh a lot more to go to get this bearing off

we would probably go to the Press fix some jigs right here and continue to just press right down uh this bearing is just about off already because of the uh

the bearing pull so for the most part we could just grasp that crankshaft in our hand again put that put that nut flush with the crankshaft to protect the threads and we

could just take it all the way through and removing bearing uh is as

simple as that this this is a great tool it helps quite a bit um they've got smaller they've got larger this was just the best fit for what we

had okay and what we're going to do is repeat the same thing on the other side same procedure uh remove that bearing as

well okay so the next thing we're going to do considering this this bearing was already off now we're going to go through the procedure on how to

reinstall new bearings how to install the crankshaft back into the crank case and then finish rebuilding our engine okay so now we're going to go ahead and

install the bearings we're going to use this uh small hydraulic press it does not take a lot of pressure to get these bearings on um what I have here just

because it doesn't take so much pressure I've got just a regular piece of PVC uh 3/4 in pipe it's the perfect fit for around the crankshaft and it's also the

perfect diameter for the in race so this is what I use if you you could probably use a piece of metal conduit uh or of course Wacker has a special tool that

looks just like that at of of heavier gauge steel this is how I do it works well has worked well for years okay we're going to set our

crankshaft and we're going to get it centered we're going to put our bearing on there is no direction to the bearing it doesn't really matter we're going to

set it on and we're going to take our PVC or just regular 3/4 in PVC and sliping on there and then we to start to get to

press that be on as we get closer we'll get a little bit better with the accuracy straight on okay

we're going to get everything as straight as possible P PVC the pipe the

Press see

just that's it it's soon as it as soon as it seems like it's flush with that uh side of the crankshaft you're done you don't don't have to put a lot of

pressure we'll just stop right there if it's off by a thousand and it didn't press all the way in we'll address that later once we assemble the block but for

right now this is all you need we can now release it from the

Press take the PVC off take your crank shaed off and this is now where you would do the other crank

bearing okay now our crankshaft is in good condition we got the new bearings on there we're ready to proceed back to

the bench we're ready to uh take this crankshaft assembly and new bearings and put it back into our now cooled crank

case halves okay uh just like when we had to remove it we're going to have to heat this up so we so when we install it

it'll install much easier okay at this point some sometimes you lose track of which way is which this bearing

is the same bearing both sides you could easily put the crankshaft in backwards okay we know this was the flywheel side

the flywheel has the key so long as we know the flywheel has the key this is going to be the clutch side this is the PTO side the positive

uh takeoff side of the engine so we're going to put it in like this okay so first thing we're going to do is

get our other Home Depot tool a regular 4in PVC

coupler we're going to take this right here this is the clutch side the clutch side goes in here we're going to heat

this up we're going to take this assembly to the press and we're going to press it in okay so let's start by heating it up now once we start this we

want to act fast because as as quickly as it heats up it also cools it's going to be harder to press and you're more likely to crack or damage the crank a so

a little bit of heat get it done pressed in quickly it'll be

great okay okay uh all we had to do is adjust the adjust the press a little bit this is heated up we're going to have it

the bolts towards the back so we could watch the crankshaft and we could watch how how it goes in when we start to press to make sure that it goes in

evenly just going to align that if you heat it enough to see how that went in the bearing just slid all

the way in already uh it doesn't always do that so what we want to do is pay tension and make sure it goes in nice

and

straight again make sure that nut is flush with the crankshaft okay as we begin to press

we're going to try to make sure we keep our alignment between the crankshaft and the crank case and it presses down at the same time uh evenly left side right

side if it starts to go down in an angle you've got to stop if you keep pressing you're going to crack it if all of a sudden it starts pressing at an angle you could relieve the pressure go to the

high side press it down a little bit and as soon as it's level reposition it in the center and go ahead and continue to

press okay it's fully pressed uh as soon as you see some resistance and as soon as you see that crank shaft is just about tou in the

crank case that's it again if you're off of thousands it'll it doesn't matter because when we bolt it all together we'll address how to how to compensate

that extra little bit okay so we're straight we can go ahead and release the press okay now what we've done the other

side is done we've already heated this side up so what we're going to do is we're going to place this in the in the uh press as well again with the crank

crank connecting rod side out so we could watch it get guided in we've got our crank case gasket go and get that crank case gasket in there and

what we're going to do is just tear this right in the center for now so when we set it in our crank our

connecting R will go through and then we'll trim off the top when we're done then we put the nut onto the

crankshaft and we're going to go ahead and drop this drop this in we're going to keep the bolts to the back to connecting right to the

front the crank case if you see right here has a guide pin on the left side and on the right side okay that'll keep

everything aligned so we're going to go ahead and get this set up as straight as we can try to get this set in as evenly as

possible we go okay and now we'll just begin to stret and we'll check our

alignment okay as we get closer we'll make sure everything is

centered if you see your crankshaft is going in in an angle if you see it's not going in as straight as it should be stop and redo it if you continue to

press you're going to snap something or crack your crank case or do some damage okay in our case everything

well I think maybe our pin is not align we'll release this a little

bit okay we just tap this over a little bit

okay if your PIN is not aligned it's not going to go together our pins are aligned our crank cases are going together smoothly and

evenly okay everything looks good there okay go ahead and release this

okay take this out put it back in our vice let it cool a little bit okay now that we got it out of the press the two

crank case halves are together uh we haven't put the screws in yet we're going to start putting the screws in now it's still a little warm we don't want it to completely cool yet uh because if

the bearings are not 100% seated um as we draw the bolts together that'll that'll pull everything together and that'll help seat everything okay so

we're going to go ahead and start putting in the bolts and we'll tighten the crank case everything we do when we put this engine together is going to be lock

tighted the Loctite brand or any other kind of a medium strength blue thread Locker

okay I'm not using a thread Locker on these cuz I'm going to pull this motor apart for another class we're doing so I'm not going to be lock hiding I'm not going to be torquing uh but you're going

to so a little bit of blue lock Hep or thread Locker on all these screws uh these screws are 5 lb of of

torque and you're going to do a crisscross pattern starting on the inside and then go outside never go clockwise or counterclockwise so once we

start snugging these screws if the bearings are not seated 100% as you start your crisscross pattern you may hear a little Creak you

may hear a little noise that's the crank cases uh completely uh accepting the bearing and seating correctly

this one okay everything be cool now uh we want

to make sure everything is rotating freely there's no binding and the final step to make sure everything is seated completely everything is torqued

everything is pressed in just one one good tap on this side one good tap on this

side between the torque the Taps this bearing is fully heated and you'll see it actually rotates a little bit nicer now after the head okay so we're

completely seated okay so we're going to go ahead and cut off the remaining gasket from the K crank case gasket we're just going to put a razor blade and just cut that

gasket flush with the

top so that's it our crank case is now done uh we've got the gasket the crank shaft everything is good the last step is the crankshaft seals I like to do

crankshaft seals last a lot of people like to put them in before they put the shaft in uh to me there's too many possibilities of heating heating up the

seal and doing damage to the seal uh when the Press when the crankshaft gets pressed in sometimes could do damage to the seal so I like to put the seals in

afterwards okay we're going to use our 4in coupler again just to hold the engine

down we're going to grab some new crankshaft seals we're going to grab our new crankshaft seals uh what you want to do is you want to just take a little bit

of oil and lubricate the inside of the seal this way when it gets pressed onto the shaft uh it goes on nice and smooth just remove the nut over here put the

seal down in place and there are seal drivers there are sockets there are pieces of 3/4 in PVC that we love to use

and I'm going to go ahead and use that PVC cuz it's the perfect diameter on the inside and outside and it fits right over just like the crank sh have

bearings you want to check alignment if that steel starts that steel starts going in crooked you want to tap the high side get it level and then press it down lovely again okay so we're going to

just tap it in place check it Midway make sure everything's going well everything is level tap a little

further if you see got a little bit of a high side there's a little bit of room a little bit of play you could just bring it over to the side hit the high side bring it to the

other high side you could just slowly adjust it but ultimately you want that seal pressed in you want the top of the seal

flush with the top of this engine okay so that seal is on everything is smooth

turning well no binding that seal is done little bit of oil on the inside of the

seal get it in place and tap that seal down

flush if you don't have the PVC uh the correct size socket will also fit on there it'll do the same thing so that seal is flush with the top of the engine

that seal is done okay now that our seals are on uh that motor's cooled off a bit we've got it mounted right back up to our jig what

we're going to do now is we're going to go ahead and install the coil and install the flywheel okay take this coil and just reverse

everything we did before plug through and what we're going to do heat right in this little rubber grommet remember if we kept the rubber grommet

in there we'd have to slide this whole thing out and have this this end of the spark plug pull through the grommet be a pain uh so what we did we just pulled

the whole grommet out Made made life a lot easier to come through uh but sometimes to get that grommet back in a little bit of a paint also grab a little

WD40 a little bit of light oil and just lubricate this section of the grommet this way when you go to install it right into that hole you

could usually wiggle it back in pull it through from the other side and it'll pop right in make make it a lot easier okay so we're going to go ahead and try

to get that popped through we're just about

there sometimes you may need to pry a little bit not too much because you don't want to clip you don't want to clip the wires

we'll just go ahead and finish pop that through over

here okay The Grommet in place okay so once we rout that through

we get this tuck Dumber under the flap uh and we put our our coil in place go ahead and put those screws back into place

place again the uh any Fasteners that we use to to reassemble the engine we're going to use a medium strength lock uh uh thread Locker like a blue lock typ

and we're going to go ahead and install the uh install the ignition coil

screws the older Wacker jumping jacks the bs45 BS 52 bs60 b62 y Etc uh used a

different style ignition coil and you're able to use a regular uh regular spark plug like a regular uh champion l86 and they run just fine the newer style

Wacker jumping jacks uh the oil injected and uh and things like that they have a new style uh ignition coil there's a lot

more circuitry inside and they require a resistor spark plug if you use a standard spark plug when you should be using a resistor plug you will in most

cases notice uh it's not going to run right it may not idle right it may not accelerate right and once it does it your clutch Eng gauges and it starts uh

compacting you may you may notice uh erratic jumping cuz the the motor is not running well if you've got one of the newer machines you've got to run the

resistor style spark plug you'll notice a very big difference Okay so we've got our coil on

the screws on the coil are going to get torqued to 2 and 1/2 ft-lbs again we're not torquing ours or lock titing ORS because we're going to use this for another class um once we're

in place you want to go ahead and bend this tab down get my

hammer and we'll just tap it down a little bit first once it's in that little Notch get your screwdriver on it

and hit it till it's flush with the case okay we're going to do the same thing the small ground wire going to get that routed

through we'll get that in place we'll hook it up smaller

screwdriver we'll just give it another little pop okay what I like to do when I do these

just because if that ground wire gets loose and starts flopping around and hits that flywheel it's going to ground out normally what I do when I get to

this point I'll take a little bit of a silicone just a little bit and squirt it into that Groove and make sure it's in there holding down that wire because

just because it's clamped here doesn't mean it can't come free over here okay so I'll normally put a little bit of RTV a little bit of silicone or something

squish it in there and let it dry this way that wire is not going to be the the problem next time around okay so our coil is on our wires are rounded our

Tabs are pressed in it's time to install the flywheel now we' got the flywheel the flywheel is

keyed we'll line up our key with the key slot here

there we go okay we've got our washer we've got our

nut okay this nut is torqued to 41 ft-lb

remember don't use your screwdriver you'll break your flywheel you'll damage your coil you could use your screwdriver on that

top hole and torque it that way do not use an impact if you use an

impact that that nut is very thin there's maybe five or six threads if you do it too hard with that impact you're going to strip the threads on that crankshaft you'll do this whole thing

again okay so we're going to stay away from the impact you could remove it with the impact don't install it with the impact okay on the older

style uh w8s they didn't have little little inserts on the ignition coil and there was actually a little bit of room to

adjust your coil uh for the air gap Standard air gap use your fueler gauge right there at the magnets between

13,000 and 16,000 of an inch okay so you'll set your Gap then you'll snug those screws the newer ones the these

coils have little inserts and there is no there is no adjustment once they pop into place there is no moving it there is no adjusting it so you don't have to

worry too much about an air gap on the newer style because you cannot move them okay that's why we did our coil first okay um so that's on that's torqued our

flywheel side is pretty much done now we're going to move on to uh installing the piston and cylinder assembly okay we're ready to install our new cylinder

assembly we got our gasket here um just a quick note on pistons and cylinders uh for the most part the piston and cylinder assembly is pretty inexpensive

if you got to do an overhaul on the engine uh in just about every case it's really worth putting a new kit in that's going to be the new piston new ring new

cylinder it's not expensive it it's it's worth you not having to do this procedure again in 3 months from now having said that if you want to just do

Rings if you want to just do piston or if you want to just see uh if your piston and cylinder are within limits or not there are a couple of things for you to check the first thing is ring end Gap

uh pretty much to tell you if your rings are worn or not worn okay it's just a standard piston ring and what you're going to do is you're going to install the Piston Ring into the cylinder okay

the bottom of the cylinder doesn't see anywhere the top of the cylinder say from here up where the the Piston is the the Piston is sliding up and down the

whole time sees all the wear the very bottom doesn't see a lot of wear so to determine if your problems uh if you your your rings are within limits or not

you're going to go to the non-w warn area the bottom of the cylinder so what you want to do is you want to take your ring install it near the bottom of the cylinder where there's no wear and you

want to measure that gap on the ring the distance between the two ends is called the ring end Gap okay uh a new piston

ring has an uh has a distance of 8,000 to 16,000 of an inch so if you're within

those limits you're in perfect condition it's got a maximum allowable gap of 47,000 of an inch if you're right around

47,000 of an inch your piston rings are pretty well shot time to replace um the next thing you want to do

is you want to see if your cylinder itself is worn or not worn there are two things to check for one is the obvious

is it scored is it scratched are there any obvious issues inside the cylinder uh we get a lot of calls saying hey my cylinder looks fine just send me Rings

or just send me a piston and 2 weeks later they're they're trying to order a cylinder kit just because your cylinder doesn't look damaged doesn't mean it's

good so the way you're going to check the cylinder itself is checking ring in gap again you could take your old ring or a new ring and you could put it into

the bottom just like we did and we can measure that Gap at at one end of the cylinder and then what you could do is take a piston and just force that same

ring all the way down or as far down as you can get and measure the the ring end gap on

the other side of the cylinder okay now the difference between the ring end gap on the bottom of the cylinder and the distance between the ring end gap on the

top of the cylinder should not exceed 8,000 of an inch if the Gap changes more than 8,000 of an inch your cylinder is

worn it should be replaced okay so that's the quick easy way to check if your cylinder's got an issue or if your rings have an

issue that being said we're going to go ahead and install this cylinder assembly here's the cylinder that we removed here's the piston

pin and connecting rod okay now the first thing we're going to do when we go to install this piston

is put the piston in the right direction on the top of the Piston there there's going to be an arrow the arrow points towards the exhaust side and the reason

for that is when the arrow is pointing towards the exhaust side it's going to put the ring ends on the other side and that's going to make sure the ring ends

aren't on the on the exhaust side because if it's on the the exhaust side as it goes up and down past the port those little ring ends can get clipped by the port break your rings damage your

piston and cylinder so in order to keep the ring ends on the opposite side you keep the arrow on the exhaust side okay

and remember our exhaust side we wrote our little note it rubbed off by now but our exhaust side was noted here so we're going to put the arrow in the direction

over there okay so first thing we're going to do is put our new needle bearing into the connecting

rod we're going to put our Arrow we're going to put our needle bearing into the connecting rod we're going to take the Piston slip it over

the connecting rod with bearing right now if you had some two cycle oil you'd actually want to put a little bit of oil around this bearing uh

when you slip it in just to get a little lubrication in there before we start up the motor we're going to go ahead and put the pin

through and we're going to try to align the pin through that connecting rod and bearing push it through as much as you

can okay we're going to take a small needle noose or screwdriver or whatever it takes to take that pin and just finish driving that pin all the way back

till it seats against the clip on the other side once that's all the way in we just have to install install our clip so we're going to go ahead and install that

little clip once I get it started I usually put my thumb over it just in case it pops out I don't lose

it I'm going to push it in till we hear it snap once it feels like it's solidly in

I usually take one end of the clip and just rotate the clip around a little bit this way I could visually see

that the clip has been seated inside the groove of the Piston once that's in we're ready to go we're ready to install our

cylinder we're going to go ahead and install our

gasket and we're ready to put our Seer on there's two tools that we're going to use to help us guide this cylinder on without having a problem the very first

thing we sell a piston ring compressor kit and it comes with a little tool like this this a this is a blocking

tool it slips over the connecting rod and when you rotate the engine it stops the Piston from moving

around now you can easily work with that piston without flopping all over the place okay so that that's that's the blocking tool the next thing is a ring

compressor tool most of the time if you don't don't have it the Rings aligned right and you try to jam them into the cylinder you're going to crack rings once you break the

Rings you got to stop order new Rings whatever the case may be so we're going to use this little device right here on the Rings itself let me show you

on this piston right here opposite of the arrow on this side

of the Piston there are two pins these two pins where the Rings are going to wind up going okay there's

a little pin there and if you look at the ring the end of the Ring has a little Notch these rings when installed are going to align right where the notch is

okay but when we go to put the Piston into the cylinder we need to compress it in order to get into into the cylinder so that's where this tool right here

comes into play we're going to slip it over the Rings and when we squeeze it it'll

compress the Rings okay so that's what we're going to do now we're going to align the ring

ends over the pins and we're going to compress it remember this was our exhaust side

because the exhaust side is higher than the intake side going to use our little

tool and when you compress it just leave a little bit of the Piston exposed this way when the cylinder goes

on it'll catch and you know your alignment is good so we've got the piston rings compressed and we've got the cylinder ready to go on okay we'll

rotate we'll line our gasket again we'll rotate the flywheel until the Piston is solid against the base we'll put our cylinder

right on top of the piston and we'll just start tapping down the

cylinder you could remove the tool the Rings are compressed you can slide the cylinder down now you could

rotate your flywheel up you could remove your blocking tool you can align your gasket

better and you can slowly rotate your flywheel all the way down make sure your gas doesn't get sucked in

there sometimes just take a little wiggling and a little adjustment don't tighten anything don't force anything until you can confirm your gaskets not

been moved or damaged your cylinder is flush give that cylinder going to uh give that flywheel a rotation or two

make sure everything's moving smoothly and and and well uh now we're ready to put in our new bolts again I like to use new bolts

because old aged bolts in combination with an old uh allen wrench or socka head wrench uh sometimes don't get the best fit um and when you're going to

remove the other ones sometimes they can round out and if you got a rounded out bolt way down there it's not as easy as you would uh imagine to remove what

you'll wind up having to do is get a drill bit all the way in there and keep drilling until you drill the complete head off and then when you pull your cylinder off you'll have what looks like

a stud popping out of your crane case um it's not an easy way to go we sell a complete engine overhaul kit that includes four screws uh definitely the

way to go if you don't get the whole complete kit and you only buy a piston in cylinder do yourself a favor and get new cylinder bolts okay okay so once

again a little blue locktite on these

screws okay you're going to get them fingertight you're going to grab your torque wrench you're going to crisscross them and you get torqued to 7t lb

okay once they're torqued your cylinder your cylinder is done we are just about done here uh next thing we're going to do

is let's put our boot back on if this is a little snug a little bit of WD40 right in this

boot and just slide that boot right over it okay so the boot is

done we're going to go ahead and put our heat shield back on put our bolt back on top

okay put our carburetor s back on get our gasket in

there put that carburetor adapter plate I just this washer

here just a little flange nut two little flange nuts is all it takes to hold this on

we're now ready to put our cover back on

okay that's it our overhaul is done this engine is ready to be reinstalled um I would say uh if you've

got the oil injected uh engine uh there's not much uh you could do other than add a little bit of oil to your gas

uh for for that first tful of gas the let you get a little bit more oil for the Breakin of this new piston and cylinder uh if you're premixing and you

don't have oil injection just put a little a little more oil for the first tank just let this thing break in you got a lot of new components in here a little more oil uh goes a long way um

that's it you're ready to put your clutch back on install it onto your machine once it's on your machine you could hook up your cables and your air intakes and everything like that you can

put your muffler back on remember to use a a thread locker and if you're not sure of your Torx or values give us a call with your model we'd be happy to look

that up okay I I hope that was helpful if you have any questions on overhauling your wm80 engine please give us a call toll-free 866 611

9369 my name is David with DHS equipment and thanks for watching do you need concrete C off saw parts still whacker

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